by Beniamina Cassetta

In this Worldbound issue dedicated to food, we spoke with Professor Michele Filippo Fontefrancesco. He shared insights from his experience as a student, researcher, and lecturer on a topic as universal as it is complex: food. His perspective brings together the methodological rigor of an anthropologist, the practical awareness of a former mayor of a small rural town in Piedmont, and the curiosity of a lifelong learner who continues to explore, question, and travel.

Beniamina Cassetta: As a food anthropologist, you have conducted research on vineyards, rural landscapes, agricultural innovation in the Mediterranean, and sustainability in the Pacific. What connects these seemingly diverse fields?

Michele Filippo Fontefrancesco: The starting point is a simple question: what is food? For an anthropologist, the most boring thing you can do with food is actually eat it. Food is a powerful analytical tool. It allows us to understand the histories of communities, the transformations of territories, and cultural systems. And, not least, it helps us understand how we imagine the future. Food is both nature and culture. Without nature, we don’t have the raw elements-the grain, the water, the materiality of food. Without culture, we don’t assemble, cook, interpret, or appreciate those elements. It is precisely this combination that makes food such a privileged lens for cultural analysis. Food embodies innovation, tradition, change, expectations, fears, and hopes. These are the dimensions that anthropologists seek to understand in their fieldwork.

BC: During your university years, did you spend any time abroad?

MFF: Yes, gradually. During my undergraduate studies in history, I began with Erasmus experiences, mainly through summer archaeology field schools. During my master’s degree, I studied in Poznań, Poland, where I focused on contemporary history but especially linguistics-the country has a strong tradition in analytical linguistic studies. After graduating, I spent a year in the United States, in Virginia, and then moved to Durham in the UK for my PhD in anthropology. My doctoral research focused on the impact of the 2008–2012 economic crisis on the goldsmith production system in Valenza, in the province of Alessandria, one of Italy’s main jewellery districts.

BC: How did your interest in food emerge?

MFF: It came later, during my postdoctoral research, when I returned to Italy and was asked to work on food heritage. At the same time, I became mayor of my hometown, a rural municipality in a UNESCO-designated area in Piedmont. That experience led me to reflect on what rural development means, that is tourism, hospitality, and ethnobotany, including the preservation and transformation of knowledge systems.

BC: Did your experience as mayor influence your research on food festivals?

MFF: Absolutely. There is always continuity between life experiences and the research interests that emerge from them. I must admit, as a participant, I don’t particularly like food festivals - they’re noisy and not really my preferred environment. However, food festivals are ubiquitous, and that’s precisely why they became an interesting object of study.
As a mayor, I was immersed in a context that emphasised authenticity and the promotion of local cuisine. But when I looked around, I saw countless communities moving in the opposite direction. This raised a key question: why do these communities organise festivals that don’t seem to add value to their territorial brand, despite the passion and effort invested? That question led me, about ten years ago, to begin my research and understand the fundamental role of these events for their communities.
Today, food festivals are clearly a global phenomenon. Food is no longer simply about nourishment; it is increasingly sought after as an experience, even as a destination in itself, especially in rural areas. Across the world, food is becoming central to tourism, and festivals play a crucial role in building local identity. When they are connected to local  productions, such as regional wine or beer, they also support local economies and increase visibility for businesses.

BC: Based on your research, are there recurring patterns in how innovation enters tradition? For example, in your studies on beer made from recycled ingredients or on biopesticides in agriculture.

MFF: First of all, we need to agree on one thing: tradition exists only as long as we actively maintain it. If we stop practicing it, it disappears. There are individuals and communities that are more open to innovation and others that are more resistant. Italy, generally speaking, is not particularly neophiliac - there is often resistance because “this is how it has always been done.” When innovation arrives, it creates disruption, that is a radical change that challenges existing practices. The key question is: what is your situation when you face that transformation? What do you stand to lose? How much anxiety does it cause?
This reaction is natural. Innovation often brings concern, frustration, even a sense of powerlessness. At the same time, it can also generate excitement, hope, and new aspirations. We need to understand this affective economy.
In sectors like craft brewing, innovation is driven by creativity and the search for new markets and products. But in agriculture, the situation is much more fragile. Asking farmers to change practices can create significant anxiety. Agricultural profitability is declining, the workforce is aging, and market uncertainty, especially due to climate factors, is extremely high.
This is why support mechanisms are essential: they can help offset potential productivity losses and reduce fear. Bridging the gap between policymakers and practitioners is also crucial, so that entrepreneurs feel actively involved and aware of the changes taking place.

BC: So, are institutions and governments actively rethinking food systems and their role in shaping development?

MFF: Absolutely. I recently contributed as an author to the United Nations’ Global Environmental Outlook, published in December-a major policy-oriented document of around 1,200 pages. Food plays a central role in it. There are two main directions. On the one hand, there is an agroecological approach: rediscovering traditional varieties and ecotypes that require less human intervention. On the other, there is a push toward radical innovation-cultured meat, alternative proteins such as insects, and new agricultural technologies.
These developments often provoke concern, but they also represent tools to reduce the environmental impact of food production. The discussion also includes consumption patterns and circular economy models.
To give a sense of scale: American spending on Halloween alone exceeds the annual funding allocated to all US national parks. This highlights the urgency of rethinking priorities, economic redistribution, and incentives for sustainable investment. Food is therefore one of the key domains through which we can shape the future. It is one of the most impactful industries globally and still faces major challenges, particularly in terms of waste and unequal access. We now produce enough food to feed the world. But not everyone has access to it.

BC: Let’s rapidly shift geographically: can you tell us about your work in the Pacific Islands?

MFF: As Università Cattolica, we are currently involved in two projects, working with university networks across Polynesia, Vanuatu and the Federated States of Micronesia. The aim is to support sustainable development, especially by strengthening local university systems. One focus is on hospitality and food services; another is on professions linked to “green” and “blue” sustainability, including ocean resource management.
These regions are already experiencing the dramatic effects of climate change. Rising sea levels pose a direct threat to entire island communities. Our goal is to provide tools and skills to better manage resources and adapt to change, helping train a new generation capable of building a future that-while uncertain-may be less alarming than it currently appears.

BC: Speaking of future generations: if you were to attend university today, what would you prioritise?

MFF: I would still try to combine work and study, even if not in the same field. I would maintain an international perspective and invest more seriously in learning languages from the start: they make everything easier and open up more opportunities. Studying abroad was incredibly enriching, but also challenging at first. I remember my first night in Poznań: I was lost, didn’t know where to sleep, and didn’t understand a word of Polish.
I had a similar experience in Durham: sitting alone in front of the cathedral, wondering, “Why did I do this to myself?” But those moments taught me something important: feeling lost or discouraged is normal. What matters is getting up the next day and moving forward. Being strong doesn’t mean not having emotions. It means being able to start again from where you left off.